I had gel manicures for years... I was blissfully unaware common side effect experienced by thousands of women was warning sign my fingernails were FALLING OFF
For years, I'd had gel manicures without a second thought. I treated them as the safest of beauty indulgences—glossy, indestructible, always reliable—and I never imagined they could pose a risk to anything other than my bank balance.
So, when a new manicurist glanced at my hands during a routine appointment, frowned, and immediately refused to apply gels, I was stunned.
She pointed at a small white patch beneath my fingernail, a mark I'd noticed months earlier but dismissed as nothing.
'There's a white patch here,' she said. 'Your nail is separating from the nail bed. It's called onycholysis, often an allergic reaction to gel polish or from poor application technique. If you keep going, you could lose the nail.'
And it turns out I'm far from alone.
Experts say the explosion in gel manicures, especially at-home kits, is fuelling a surge in hidden nail damage across the UK.
According to one 2025 report, the UK at-home gel nail kits market was worth around £26million.
Podiatrist Margaret Dabbs OBE, CEO and Founder of Margaret Dabbs London, tells me the condition the manicurist spotted, onycholysis, is becoming increasingly common, yet most people do not recognise the early signs.
Perdita Nouril was at risk of losing her fingernails because of her love of gel polish manicures
'It's not always painful at first,' says celebrity manicurist Iram Shelton, whose clients include Naomi Watts, Julianne Moore and Nicola Coughlan.
I find Iram's comments reassuring, as my nails were neither sore nor did they exhibit any sensation of looseness or detachment.
But she adds, 'if you ignore it, it can get worse or even lead to infection so it's worth catching early on.'
Both Shelton and Dabbs explain that the colour is a tell-tale sign.
When the nail becomes detached, it typically appears white or yellowish, as it's no longer connected to the vascular nail bed beneath.
In contrast, a healthy, fully attached nail looks pink because the blood vessels beneath the translucent nail plate are visible.
Dabbs says she is seeing more cases than ever.
'With the growing popularity of manicures, nail damage has become increasingly common, particularly issues such as onycholysis, onychomycosis, and weakened or brittle nails.'
Perdita had had gel manicures for years, unaware of the damage they were causing her nails
In other words, that tiny white patch I ignored for months is something professionals are spotting daily.
While nail techs are reporting more people seeking help for nail lifting, the issue isn't always the gel product itself. Shelton stresses that most damage she sees comes down to how gels are applied or cured.
Shelton says most damage comes from how gels are applied or cured, from over-filing to underpowered or faulty lamps.
At-home manicures are especially risky, since incomplete curing can trigger allergies and onycholysis.
'It's hardly ever the gel product itself, most problems come down to technique,' Shelton explains.
'Applying layers too thick, not curing properly by using weak lamps, this puts stress on the nails. Even peeling gels off can cause trauma.'
Against this backdrop, regulators in Europe have also begun reviewing the ingredients used in gel systems. In September, the EU banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a photoinitiator that helps gel polish harden under UV light.
The decision was based on long-term safety assessments rather than nail damage, and TPO-containing gels remain permitted in the UK and US for now.
The damage was most apparent on her little fingernail, which had lifted away from the nail bed
Industry experts expect the UK to consider similar restrictions by 2026, but the change is precautionary: the aim is to replace TPO with alternatives that meet updated safety standards, not to suggest that gel manicures are inherently dangerous.
Francesca Rapolla, senior affairs manager at the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, explained that the industry could not defend the ingredient's continued use because 'it could not demonstrate that there are no alternative ingredients to this one.'
Others dispute the move, with cosmetic scientist Doug Schoon writing that it would 'impose unnecessary economic burdens, waste safe products, and undermine confidence in EU regulatory proportionality.'
The broader conversation touches on endocrine-disrupting chemicals found in everyday cosmetics, including some phthalates still used in beauty products. These substances have been increasingly researched for their potential links to reproductive disorders.
Cases of endometriosis, for instance, have risen from around 3.4 million globally in 1990 to more than 190 million today.
As Professor Katie Burns previously told the Mail: 'These are chemicals that will stay in the body for a long, long time, hidden in fatty tissue. They impact the immune system, and in some women we believe this may trigger reproductive problems and endometriosis.'
Still, for most people experiencing nail lifting, professionals say the cause is far more immediate and mechanical: technique, tools, and the health of the nail itself.
Dabbs warns that nail separation is rarely due to a single factor. 'There can be many causes of nail damage and much depends on the technique used during both the manicure and the gel removal process.
Over filiing or drilling can cause trauma to the nail
'While gel manicures are not always the direct cause, they can contribute to nail weakening or separation, particularly if the products are applied too thickly, instruments non-sterile, or removed aggressively.'
She adds that this gradual thinning and weakening of the natural nail can make it more vulnerable to infections such as fungal nail disease.
Proper technique and allowing breaks between applications are essential, something many regular gel users never do.
Doctors also warn that nail lifting can sometimes signal more than just poor technique. Dr. Suzanne Wylie, GP and medical adviser for IQdoctor, explains that while onycholysis is often linked to local factors like trauma, fungal infection, or nail cosmetics, it can also point to systemic issues, including thyroid problems.
'From a GP's perspective in the UK, it's important to consider the broader clinical context,' Wylie says.
'In patients with hyperthyroidism, the nail may lift at the tip due to changes in the nail bed's vascularity and metabolism, whereas hypothyroidism can lead to brittle, slow-growing nails that can separate from the nail bed.
'When discussing cosmetic practices such as gel nails, it's essential to highlight that improper application or an adverse reaction to the chemicals used can worsen onycholysis.'
She adds that overzealous filing, repeated exposure to irritants, or allergic reactions can weaken the bond between nail and nail bed, sometimes revealing an underlying predisposition, such as thyroid disease.
Some gel polishes which contain a chemical called TPO are being banned by the EU
'A thorough GP assessment should therefore include a detailed history of cosmetic nail use, questions about systemic symptoms like fatigue, weight changes, or temperature intolerance, and consideration of basic thyroid function tests. This helps distinguish between purely cosmetic causes and an underlying endocrine disorder that may need treatment.'
Dabbs advises regular breaks and keeping nails hydrated. 'To extend the life of your manicure, it's important to moisturise your hands regularly.
'Most importantly, take regular breaks from polish or gel applications to allow your nails time to recover and maintain their natural strength and health.'
Shelton encourages better prep and thinner layers if doing polish at home, but stresses that at-home gels are risky for anyone without training.
Weeks after removing my gels, I'm keeping my nails super short and waiting for the onycholysis to grow out.
Had that manicurist not spoken up, I might have continued with gels until the nail completely loosened.
Ultimately gel nails aren't inherently dangerous. But ignoring what your nails are trying to tell you is.
If something looks off, a small white patch, a sudden change in colour, unexpected thinning, don't just paint over it.
And don't assume that because a product is popular, it's harmless. Sometimes the smallest sign is the one that saves your nail, or your health.
