Retinol can wipe years off your face – here’s why January and February could be the months to try it
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I’m lucky enough to meet a lot of dermatologists, facialists and beauty editors through my job, and one thing they largely agree on is that retinoids (a group of vitamin A derivatives used in skincare) are some of the most effective ingredients you can use when it comes to rejuvenating your face.
Largely known for their anti-ageing powers – retinoids boost skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen, which helps combat fine lines – they can also be used to treat specific issues like acne and hyperpigmentation. While there are hardcore prescription-only retinoids available, such as tretinoin, it’s normal safer to start with a milder version such as retinol, which is available in plenty of high street creams and serums.
Even with retinol though, you need to be careful. Due to its resurfacing power, retinol makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight, which is why it’s essential to wear at least SPF 30 on your face in the daytime if you're applying retinol at night. For those who are nervous about the association between retinol use and sun damage, January and February are a good opportunity to try the ingredient, because UV levels are at their lowest (although this doesn’t mean you can forego the SPF).
Retinoids boost skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen, which helps combat fine lines – they can also be used to treat specific issues like acne and hyperpigmentation
Clinic Lead at Face the Future, Kimberley Medd, says ‘January and February are prime retinol months. Not only are people far more likely to start and stick to a consistent skincare routine at this time of year, but low UV levels create ideal conditions for introducing or increasing vitamin A with minimal disruption to the skin. With less sun exposure, there’s a reduced likelihood of inflammation and post-inflammatory pigmentation, which are common concerns when using vitamin A in warmer months,’ she says.
Of course, another concern people have regarding retinol is that it will make their skin dry and sensitive; not great in the winter months when many people experience these symptoms anyway. ‘Cold temperatures, wind exposure and indoor heating place far more stress on the skin barrier than low winter sun,’ agrees Medd. ‘This is why hydration and barrier-strengthening lipids are essential companions to retinol during the colder months. When the barrier is supported, skin tolerates retinol better and results are more visible.’ In other words, you need to be giving your skin plenty of hydrating TLC, which is perhaps easier to do when we're spending our evenings on the sofa watching The Traitors instead of gadding about at Christmas parties etc.
A little redness or flaking is normal within the first couple of weeks of using retinol, but if your skin continues to struggle then one option Medd recommends is the ‘sandwiching’ method. ‘Applying a light moisturiser before and after retinol cushions the skin, reduces dryness and supports consistency, which is far more important than using a higher strength,’ she says. ‘Buffering retinol doesn’t dilute its effectiveness, it protects the skin so you can continue using it regularly.’
At a time of year when dullness, dehydration and uneven texture are most likely to be a problem for your skin, the results of retinol can also be more noticeable. ‘Using retinol two to three nights per week is enough to see meaningful improvement while keeping the skin barrier intact, particularly during colder months,’ says Medd.
See the You beauty team’s favourite retinol products below…
This powerhouse formula, suitable for skin already acclimated to retinoids, combines Retinol and Retinal to deliver visible anti-ageing benefits.
Powered by vitamin A, the serum helps improve the look of firmness on the face and neck. Kangaroo paw flower extract supports skin’s natural bounce and smoothness, encouraging a more defined, refined appearance. At the same time, olive, oat, and alpha-glucan help reinforce resilience, boost hydration, and strengthen the skin’s barrier.
Providing the same results as retinol but up to 11 times faster, retinal works to boost the appearance of collagen-rich skin, revealing bouncy and dewy results.
Restore visible bounce and luminosity with the Murad No.1 Retinol Heroes Set. Featuring three high-performance formulas, each enriched with Retinol Tri-Active Technology, the set helps to target the appearance of skin ageing.
Contains a complex of vitamins A, C, E, antioxidants and peptides that help to combat the damaging effects of free radicals and improve the overall appearance of your skin. Assists in reducing the visible signs of ageing by helping to firm the skin.
With a Triple Renewal Complex containing 3% Encapsulated L-Retinal - to help reduce the appearance of fine lines, blemishes and pigmentation, 1% Granactive Retinoid - a bioavailable vitamin A for smoothing, brightening and improving skin texture, and 1% Bioavailable Bakuchiol - a ‘Retinol-like’ botanical to help reduce the appearance of fine lines
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