Women are swapping filler for tiny viral face brushes and now I know why - but the 'instant sculpt' fad is also dividing the pros: POLISHED with Elise Wilson

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Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where Daily Mail's qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice, and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don't have to.

It's not every day that I come across a great beauty tool promising a more sculpted face that costs less than my takeaway lunch.

But lately, my feed has been inundated with videos of women brushing their faces - quite literally - in the name of lymphatic drainage.

The trend has gained serious momentum after everyone's favourite comedian Nikki Glaser revealed to Vogue that she uses facial brushing to prep her skin before red carpets and television appearances, claiming it helps de-puff and define her face.

I think we can all agree that whatever it is she's doing to that complexion is worth us taking very seriously too.

So, naturally, as both a beauty editor and professional makeup artist I was intrigued - could a simple brush really give me less eye bag action in the morning as well as separate my jowls from my neck?

More importantly - are people genuinely swapping injectables for it? I was sceptical to say the least.

The technique is known as lymphatic facial brushing, and it's based on stimulating the lymphatic system, which is the network responsible for draining excess fluid and waste from tissues.

Unlike the circulatory system, which has the heart pumping blood around the body, the lymphatic system relies on movement and manual stimulation to keep fluid flowing.

'It's not every day that I come across a great beauty tool promising a more sculpted face that costs less than my takeaway lunch. But lately, my feed has been inundated with videos of women brushing their faces - quite literally - in the name of lymphatic drainage' - Daily Mail's Beauty Expert Elise Wilson

That's where these magic little brushes come in, according to the experts.

One of the original tools was developed by esthetician Cecily Braden, whose curved wooden brush with tightly packed bristles has become something of a cult item among facialists. 

The catch, of course, is that her brushes are sold in a duo pack that costs an eye-watering $220.

As much as I love skincare, and my face, that felt rather excessive.

Instead, I bought a Lymphatic Contour Face Brush on Amazon for $13.99, which looked surprisingly similar and promised all the same de-puffing benefits.

The trend has gained serious momentum after everyone's favourite comedian Nikki Glaser (pictured) revealed to Vogue that she uses facial brushing to prep her skin before red carpets and television appearances, claiming it helps de-puff and define her face 

The technique is known as lymphatic facial brushing, and it's based on stimulating the lymphatic system, which is the network responsible for draining excess fluid and waste from tissues (Pictured: Nikki Glaser)

What happened when I tried face brushing

When I tried it for myself, the first thing I noticed was how quick the routine is, which is important for the chronic 'rushing-woman syndrome' that I sadly suffer from.

Each morning before skincare, I spend about one minute lightly sweeping the brush across my neck, jawline and cheeks, following the direction of lymphatic flow.

One key step I've learned from every lymphatic therapist I've seen in my time is that you need to 'turn on' your lymph nodes first, meaning gently stimulating the drainage points in the neck and armpits before working on the face.

Otherwise, there's nowhere for the fluid to go, and sorry to say it, you'll be wasting your precious time.

Within seconds, I could feel a rush of blood circulating to the surface of my skin. My complexion looked noticeably more awake and flushed, and the puffiness around my jawline and under my eyes seemed to soften.

It's not dramatic enough to look like filler or contouring makeup, but the lifting effect is definitely visible when you compare one side of your face to the other, and for a tool that costs less than $15, I was impressed.

When I tried it for myself, the first thing I noticed was how quick the routine is. Each morning before skincare, I spend about one minute lightly sweeping the brush across my neck, jawline and cheeks, following the direction of lymphatic flow

'Within seconds, I could feel a rush of blood circulating to the surface of my skin. It's not dramatic enough to look like filler or contouring makeup, but the lifting effect is definitely visible when you compare one side of your face to the other - clearly seen here on my right side 

Why the face can look instantly more sculpted

According to Melbourne facialist April Brodie, who specialises in buccal and lymphatic facials, the immediate results people notice are mostly due to fluid movement.

'The lymphatic system in the face sits extremely superficially, roughly the depth of a sheet of paper beneath the skin,' she explained.

'Because of this, it responds best to very light, directional stimulation rather than scrubbing or pressure.'

She said purpose-designed brushes can create gentle traction on the skin that encourages lymph movement rather than exfoliation.

According to Melbourne facialist April Brodie, who specialises in buccal and lymphatic facials, the immediate results people notice are mostly due to fluid movement. She said purpose-designed brushes can create gentle traction on the skin that encourages lymph movement rather than exfoliation. Pictured: Cecily Braden Professional Face and Body Lymphatic Brushes ($220 for both)

As much as I love skincare, and my face, over $200 for a brush felt rather excessive. Instead, I bought a Lymphatic Contour Face Brush on Amazon for $13.99 (pictured), which looked surprisingly similar to all the others and promised the same de-puffing benefits

'The key is finesse. The lymphatic system responds to subtle, controlled movement, so more pressure does not mean better results.'

Brodie explained that when excess fluid is guided toward the lymphatic drainage points, swelling reduces and the natural structure of the face becomes more visible.

'What people are often noticing is fluid redistribution rather than fat loss. The underlying bone structure simply becomes clearer once puffiness subsides.'

The science behind lymphatic drainage

The concept of lymphatic drainage itself is not new. In fact, it has long been used medically to treat swelling and oedema (swelling of body tissues), particularly after surgery.

'There is substantial medical literature supporting manual lymphatic drainage,' April confirmed.

'While there are fewer studies specifically examining facial brushes, the physiological principle is well established - light, rhythmic stimulation following lymphatic pathways can help encourage fluid movement.'

This is why facial brushing sits in the same category as tools like gua sha stones and facial rollers, which aim to support the body's natural drainage processes.

The concept of lymphatic drainage has long been used medically to treat swelling and oedema (swelling of body tissues), particularly after surgery. Pro Tip: ‘Turn on’ your lymph nodes first before face brushing, by gently stimulating the drainage points in the neck and armpits before working on the face

Some experts are sceptical

Despite the viral enthusiasm online, not all experts believe these brushes are the skincare miracle they're often made out to be.

Dr Nel, skincare specialist and founder of Belleagé clinic in Sydney, says lymphatic brushes can certainly help reduce swelling, but they shouldn't be mistaken for structural treatments.

'They can be a great addition to your facial care as they help with swelling and particularly when you follow the lymphatic pathways,' she explained.

'However, it is mainly used as an adjunct to your normal skincare routine and not is effective used on its own.'

Despite it's virality, so experts are sceptical. Dr Nel, skincare specialist and founder of Belleagé clinic in Sydney, says lymphatic brushes can certainly help reduce swelling, but they shouldn't be mistaken for structural treatments

The big misconception about 'contouring'

One of the biggest misunderstandings circulating online is that lymphatic brushing can replace cosmetic procedures, but Dr Nel said this simply isn't true.

'Lymphatic brushes do not provide permanent results. They are mainly used for maintenance.'

'There are many alternative treatments for lifting and improving the skin, such as laser treatments, skin boosters and injectables. A combination of treatments usually delivers the best outcome.'

She also noted that people often confuse fluid drainage with fat loss, but insisted fat cells 'cannot be removed unless through surgery.'

How long the results last and can everyone do it?

According to April, the immediate depuffing effect typically lasts several hours to a full day, depending on hydration, hormones, sodium intake, sleep and circulation.

With consistent use, some people notice improvements in their baseline puffiness - particularly in the mornings, so for anyone prone to fluid retention, it can become a helpful daily habit.

Like many skincare techniques, facial brushing isn't suitable for everyone, unfortunately, with Dr Nel warning it should be avoided if you have active skin infections, cellulitis, blood clots, fever, recent surgery or areas of active skin cancer.

People with sensitive or acne-prone skin should also be cautious, as the mechanical exfoliation from brushing may aggravate irritation.

My final verdict

After several weeks of using the brush, I'm genuinely surprised by how much I enjoy it.

No, it's not replacing injectables anytime soon, but for a quick morning ritual that takes less than a minute, it does make my face look fresher, brighter and noticeably less puffy, particularly around the jawline.

And for $13.99, it's one of the most affordable beauty tools I've added to my routine in a very long time.

Disclaimer:

The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely my own and do not reflect those of any brands or companies mentioned. This content is not sponsored or endorsed.