The 8 worst things you can do to your hair, according to a dermatologist
The appearance and health of your hair can have a monumental impact on your confidence in general. When your hair looks fantastic, it puts a spring in your step – on a bad hair day, every time you catch sight of your reflection it’ll make you grimace.
One way to guarantee that good hair boost is by looking after your hair health; rather than just putting hours into styling and colouring it, this is a more holistic approach rebuilding the natural strength and condition of your hair. And one person who knows all about how to do this is Dr Sharon Wong, Consultant Dermatologist and co founder of DOSE.
Dr Sharon Wong
Below, Dr Wong reveals the worst things you can do for your hair – ranging from the products you might think are helping (but actually aren't) to the dietary mistakes that can lead to weaker strands.
Wearing your hair in tight ponytails/braids repetitively and for prolonged periods of time
‘The pulling force and tension applied to the hair follicles can, over time, cause inflammation and scarring resulting in permanent areas of hair loss - known as traction alopecia.
‘Try looser alternatives for hair styles or reduce how frequently you wear ponytails/braids and how long you keep them in. If it is for an occasional special occasion that is fine, but repeatedly doing so will cause cumulative trauma to the hair and recurrent inflammation to the follicles. Persistent scalp pain that lasts until the hair is let back down is an indicator that the style is too tight.’
Using oil to moisturise your scalp
‘Oils form an occlusive film over the scalp skin which can lead to clogging of the follicles. This can trigger acne-like spots or scalp folliculitis but also attract more debris, dead skin cells and exacerbate flaking and itching. The scalp skin has abundant grease glands secreting it's own natural oils, so extra oils are not necessary. For scalp hydration think hyaluronic acid and aloe vera or glycerin, which are humectants that attract water onto the skin surface and are non-comedogenic.’
Applying heat straighteners directly onto wet hair
‘Water molecules in the shaft of the hair turn into steam when high heat is applied. This steam will expand within the hair fibre and cause deformities in its structure (called bubble hair), which make it prone to breakage. Straighteners preferably should be used on dry hair and on the lowest heat setting, having primed the hair with a heat protectant beforehand.
‘You might wonder if this means hair dryers are also bad, but it’s less of a problem, because these are used from a distance, whilst with straighteners the hot plates are in direct contact with the hair surface.
‘With hair drying brushes the temperatures are generally less than with straighteners and, like with hair dryers, the heat applied is diffused rather than directly clamping down on the hair. In all cases of heat styling, use the lowest heat setting possible and apply a heat protectant to reduce damage.’
Crash dieting and or not eating sufficient protein
‘Hair is made of approximately 95% keratin, which is protein. Having sufficient protein intake in your diet provides the essential building blocks for strong healthy hair. Having sufficient calorific intake is also important to maintain the highly active and rapidly dividing hair follicle cells that produce hair. Crash dieting and insufficient protein intake can lead to hair shedding but also poor hair growth and weaker strands.
‘If appetite is severely reduced with weight loss measures (including weight loss jabs and gastric surgery), ensure the foods consumed are nutrient-dense and protein-rich. If this is still inadequate consider protein supplements for hair growth.’
Excessive use of bleaches and dyes
‘Bleaches and dyes exposes the hair to harsh chemicals which essentially break chemical bonds that are responsible for maintaining the structural integrity and resilience of the hair fibre. Repeated use of these will ultimately make the hair brittle and prone to breakage. Spacing out treatments so they are less frequent and using bond repair products can help to minimise the damage caused by colouring hair.’
Sleeping with wet hair
‘Damp scalp skin provides a warm, moist environment for surface bacteria and yeasts to grow. The imbalance in the scalp microbiome can lead to issues such as dermatitis, flaking and folliculitis. Ideally ensure the scalp is fully dry before sleeping.’
Using dry shampoo and not washing it out the same day
‘The starch content in dry shampoo wicks sweat, moisture, and dead skin cells to freshen up the look and texture of the hair, but this byproduct will sit on the scalp unless washed off and can block the hair follicles or lead to irritation and flaking. Preferably wash out dry shampoo the same day and if it is a regular product that is used, consider a weekly clarifying shampoo for a deep cleanse.’
Taking supplements in the absence of a deficiency
‘There is no proven evidence that shows taking supplements such as biotin improves hair growth in the absence of a deficiency. If anything over-supplementing of biotin can skew the results of other blood tests such as thyroid hormones and heart health indicators. I advise getting blood tests to look for any deficiencies before considering starting supplements and only supplement what is necessary, if you can't achieve it through your diet.’
